the tuxedo

The Dinner Jacket

A classic dinner jacket consists of a single-breasted or double-breasted coat without a back vent. The color is black or midnight blue. The classic single-breasted dinner jacket has a single closure button, which can be fastened with a buttonhole or a chain closure (two buttons and two buttonholes). The lapel is faced with silk satin or ribbed silk (grosgrain silk). It can be either a peaked lapel or a shawl collar. The jacket pockets are jetted (without flaps). The buttons (front and sleeve buttons) are covered with the same material as the lapel.

In southern countries, on cruises, and for outdoor events, a white or ivory dinner jacket (referred to as an ivory dinner jacket in English) can be worn instead of the black coat.

The Dinner Trousers

With a dinner jacket, one wears plain trousers with a plain braid. The trousers are made from the same fabric as the jacket, and the braid matches the silk facing of the lapel, except for the white dinner jacket where the trousers are black. The bottom edge slopes slightly backwards towards the heel. Thus, the trousers are a few millimeters longer in the back.

The waistband is concealed by a waistcoat or cummerbund and therefore sits at the level of the navel. Dinner trousers do not have belt loops. Instead, they are held up by suspenders (braces) attached inside the waistband. These are made of black or white silk with soft, sewn loops. Alternatively, slim men can wear trousers without suspenders, adjusting the waist size with buttons or buckles attached on the sides.